THE HISTORY OF PLEATS

From the flowing gowns of ancient Egyptian royalty to Issey Miyake’s ‘Pleats Please’ line, pleats have shaped the evolution of fashion for centuries, combining early innovation with timeless style. Beginning in its simplest terms, pleats are folds of fabric that are created by doubling material back onto itself and securing the fold. This seemingly simple design technique has become a hallmark of function and luxury, embodying innovation across diverse cultures and eras.

The Origins of Pleats: Ancient Beginnings

The use of pleats dates back to ancient Egypt around 2000 BCE. First traced back to the wardrobes of royalty and high society, who wore intricately pleated garments, to showcase their status and wealth. Mastering the technique either through creating this fold by hand or with heated tools, the pleat became a symbol of decadence due to the labour-intensive process. The most notable design of this time was the kalasiris, which was a pleated tunic made from very fine linen.

Between 500 BCE and 400 BCE, Ancient Greece and Rome uncovered this art form, however they defined the shape in a more fluid and natural manner. Peplos and chitons were worn by both men and women, draping and folding the material, and ultimately accentuating the body’s form; often seen immortalised in Greek sculptures. Pleats in this context weren’t just used for aesthetic purposes, they also allowed for greater mobility. The Romans also adapted a similar style in their togas and tunics, with pleats often emphasised to convey authority.

The Renaissance and Baroque Era: Time to Elaborate

Fast forward to the 16th century Renaissance, pleats had become a symbol of opulence across the European courts. Evolving into alternative forms of dress, the ruff collar became a popular accessory among the aristocrats. Created to frame the face, the stiff pleats were achieved through rigorous starching thus requiring precise craftsmanship only few could afford.

During the Baroque era, pleats were popularised in women’s skirts - specifically in the farthingale dress and hoop skirt - as they were able to be shaped to achieve the desired silhouette of the time. Menswear on the other hand, had adopted pleats in their doublets and jerkins.

Victorian Era: The Bigger the Better  

Positioning itself at the centre of fashion, pleats became an integral part of women’s clothing during the Victorian times. Not only were they used in adding volume to skirts, like the crinoline and bustle, but they were also further adapted to aid in the era’s obsession with size, thus creating the box pleat and knife pleat. These two gave the wearer her desired fullness of her lower half without overwhelming her.

Early 20th Century: Fortuny’s Innovation

The turn of the century brought a significant shift in how pleats were used in fashion, thanks to Spanish designer Mariano Fortuny. Revolutionising their creation through a secret technique that he developed that kept pleats in their position, despite the flimsy nature of silk, he was able to make a significant technical advancement that allowed for movement and consistent refinement. What came next was the pivotal Delphos gown in 1907, that translated art into fashion as it was designed to emulate the drapery of Greek statues.

1920s to Today: Pleats in Contemporary Fashion

Post-war fashion was able to find some freedom again as liberation was a welcomed change. The 1920s especially saw women reunite pleats as the Accordion Pleat became a fixture of skirts and dresses; but it took menswear 30 years longer to discover how a pleat could smarten up a trouser.

The 1960s and 70s is when pleats became popularised in luxury fashion by designers André Courrèges and Cristóbal Balenciaga, who explored pleating with their more futuristic designs. However, it wasn’t until 1988 when Japanese designer Issey Miyake began experimenting season upon season with this technique until he found a way of heat-setting the pleats so his designs could be lightweight, comfortable and wrinkle-resistant. In 1993, he launched his most synonymous line ‘Pleats Please’ that marked a phenomenon still widely sought-after today.

Contemporary designers such as Iris van Herpern push the boundaries of traditional pleating. Bringing the art form to her couture looks, she pleats into sculptural forms that balance intricate volumes with movement, and also combines hands on creation with laser cutting and 3D printing to help bring the ancient skill into a new era of design.

Translating the ancient art of pleating to modern life, Cahaya Studios was founded to continue the tradition through the creation of a season-less capsule for women and men. Made with efficiency and versatility in mind, the mix-match nature of the designs enables you to create looks that suit your taste and needs. Handmade in London, in one of the last remaining ateliers in the city, the wrinkle-resistant pieces are made from recycled polyester to tie sustainability to the pleating. Not just a brand but a love letter to pleats, we are on a mission to preserve and promote the legacy of pleating.